From Dubrovnik to Split, Sunday 2nd October

Split was a way stop for us, overnight in a basic, charmless room but great a/c and comfy bed. Our next ferry wasn’t till 4pm so we had plenty of time to wander around Diocletian’s palace, some of which is rebuilt, the space used by tourist shops and a fabulous fresh food marketplace. Also Italian dresses but I resisted. The history of Croatia reminds me of the present war in Ukraine. Other countries have invaded and destroyed and the local inhabitants have rebuilt and kept their culture throughout.

Monday 3rd October

Our bed-sit in the ancient city of Trogir

We took a ferry up the Croatian coastline to Trogir and stepped into a walled city, very small, transported in time as well as space. The town was first settled by Greeks ,third century, then Romans, Venetians and more. it has been destroyed and rebuilt several times, There is no traffic inside the walls, the streets are for pedestrians. Alleyways remind me of Italy, one leads to our tiny square and balcony, much photographed because our artist host painted a Romeo and Juliet on the shutters!

Trogir itself is recognised by UNESCO as a world heritage town, not least because of its magnificent cathedral which we spent hours in. The carvings are so intricate around the pillars and arches, dating from about 1248 AD. I can’t imagine how they did such fine work without modern tools. I think Gaudi may have been inspired by similar work when he designed the outside of Barcelona cathedral. We wandered around the town, found a cafe with views of the marina and the market for fruit. All fruit here tastes perfect, freshly picked. I prevailed on Pat to book another night.

In the evening we heard a male voice choir, no accompaniment, singing in glorious harmony, gave me goosebumps. There are so many places here with arched ceilings, perfect for music. some Croatian songs then Hallelujah. Bliss.

Wednesday 5th October

We were very slow to get going – again! Breakfast was cranberries, almonds , nectarines and pears from the market, biscuits and peppermint tea. Used the washing machine last night and hung teashirts from a line suspended between our balcony and the wall opposite! Loved the novelty. They dried overnight, luckily because they would have spoiled the tourists’ photos. We keep having to close the shutters for them! Tourist called up How old is this building? Me: Very old, we don’t live here, we’re tourists!

Walked along the promenade admiring the boats in the.marina and the cruise ships, not monsters but rather smart. We walked the other direction and found what they call a beach. A new concrete walkway, a pier to tie up to and a cafe. There were beach chairs and umbrellas on white gravel, not a regular pebble beach or sand. However it is all newly built and there’s a cafe. Coffee here is liquid gold, I’m addicted all over again!

Dinner was lasagne, freshly made (with a warning that it takes 25 minutes to make) and Greek salad with fresh feta. Local beer goes down well. Yum.

Tomorrow we head to Zaharia up the coast a couple of hours by bus.

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