To Mkuru Training Camp, foothills of Mt Meru. Day 2

Monday 10 July

Day 2

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We tucked into a big breakfast to prepare for our first ride. The bus took us to the outskirts of the town on a new tarmac dual highway. Our ride through Arusha National Park began after that, on the dirt road, rocky and gravelly, a challenging start. We were thrilled to see giraffe with babies, a herd of zebra, a monkey and an antelope dashing across in front of Jen and Leigh. Leigh fell off soon after. There were two more falls that day, Adriana hurt her hands and knees and Hilary tumbled down the gravelly bank of the road tangled in her bike and scraped herself all over. We all took extra care now.

At Tengeru we visited a local coffee plantation where we saw the whole process from coffee beans to drinking. We took part in de-husking the raw beans, pounding in a tall wooden bowl with 2 club-ended sticks. The beans were roasted over a methane gas ring in a ceramic pot until they smelled delicious. Back into the deep wooden container again, this time to grind the beans. Two people pound in turn and sing a song to keep the rhythm. Finally, some of the coffee was put into the ceramic pot of water and heated to make our drink. The whole plantation was built for sustainability. Methane from the cows was stored in a type of septic system and piped to cooking rings. Cows and goats ate chopped down banana plants.  Papyrus grasses were being used to weave basket style sofas and chairs for sale. We were lucky to be there for lunch. Huge bowls were laid out, fragrant lentils, meat, soya beans, potatoes and greens, with a kind of nan bread.

It was almost dark when we arrived at Mkuru Training camp, down an extra rocky pathway off the road. Our head torches were the first things to be unpacked. We slept deeply that night, upgraded from dorm to permanent tents because Justaz was so pleased with us. The caretakers even heated gallons of water for hot showers. Juma produced another satisfying meal, we were very hungry.

 

Panorama Lodge, Lake Manyara Day 10

Tuesday 18 July

Ngorongoro Crater to Panorama LodgeIMG_0359

Only a 25km ride today. The night had been cool and refreshing for sleeping. A small group of us were not riding and sat in the posh hotel having coffee and taking turns in the shower before squeezing into a taxi for the short trip. Panorama lodge is well named. Perched on the edge of the escarpment, it has a view of the whole crater. I took six photos from left to right.

The igloos are delightful, thick adobe, cool and comfortable. The roof inside looks like an upturned clay coil pot with a window and vent in the top.

 

Our afternoon game drive was in safari jeeps. We drove through tangled jungle to the lake, passing baboons, ancient trees with buttressed roots, fat-trunked baobabs, giraffes and zebra appearing at intervals through the bushes.

IMG_0386The absolute highlight of the entire trip was our encounter with elephants. We stopped beside a huge elephant munching on vegetation a couple of metres into the bush. The tusks were a metre long, a perfect curve. Its ears were fanning like palm leaves to keep cool. Then out of the bush behind our jeep stepped another elephant. It walked purposefully towards us on the track, closer and closer. There was no noise of giant footsteps. I had stopped yelping by this time and was holding my breath, eyes popping, every muscle tensed. About 3m from the jeep it swerved off to follow the first one. I was shaking all over. Tears welled as emotion overflowed. Less than a minute later they had vanished into the undergrowth.
There was another later, with a calf, crossing a sandy riverbed near a lioness relaxing in the warm sand. Mounds of dung all along the sand suggested this was a favourite elephant spot.

I said, ‘If it’s getting late, don’t worry about seeing the pelicans, we have them at home.’ Not like this. There were thousands of pelicans, noisily washing at the edge of the water, stinking of fish. I felt small. Our drive lasted for four hours. It passed so quickly. Late returning once more, I said to Justaz who was in our jeep, ‘You see now why we were late before? This is African time.’ One of his own favourite phrases.

There were a few other tourists in the dining room but our group was the largest and liveliest. After dinner, there was a show. Two musicians with a wooden xylophone and a tall tomtom drum struck up Hakuna Matata, and a group of acrobats bounced in singing and tumbling. They entertained us with limbo, juggling, building human pyramids and fire stick dancing while the music played on. We were clapping, cheering and thoroughly enjoying it all. We could not understand how one family kept their backs to the show and ate dinner. The irresistible rhythm was reminiscent of Mexican music, they use the same instruments. I think it likely that the African slaves who were brought to the Americas took their music with them.

 

Tanzania by Bike: Day 1 Neojobugg Palace Hotel, Arusha

Sunday 9 July 2017

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We are a group of twelve. All are younger than us, Ged, 57 and Lei, 56 are relieved. There is a mix of accents as people exchange names and origins. Canada, U.S., Scotland, London, Venezuela/Germany/Au, Australia, N.Z. Most are single, in their thirties and look fit. Our leader, Justaz, appraises the group as he walks in and is pleased we are all talking already. This is a good sign. He chases up our meals, orders more and we eat with our fingers from communal plates (bonding rapidly) while listening to the briefing. Our team is introduced: Karimi, our driver and owner of the mountain bikes, Juma, our cook and Amos, who works for everyone. We are told breakfast is at 7.00 and to have bags on the bus by 8.00.

‘Asante sana’ means ‘Thank you very much’ and ‘Karibu’ means ‘You’re welcome’.

 

Day 8: Serengeti Game Drives

Sunday 16 July

Around the campfire last night, we discovered Jen and Hilary had booked a private jeep safari for the morning. They were happy for us to join them and share the cost. It meant another early start but we were getting used to that. Gerard had the earliest start because he had booked a balloon trip, starting at 4.30 am. He had a sleepless night worried that he wouldn’t wake up in time. We saw his balloon later.

P7165840Our first sighting was of an impala in the golden morning sun. The black twisted horns rise in a curve from the brow and its coat is the same tan and cream as the red earth and dry grass. We saw lots of impala and never tired of their graceful beauty. A vivid patch of green announced a waterhole. The grass and vegetation contrasted sharply with the surrounding area. A pair of pretty, brown geese lived there, and along the stream were tall storks, looking like old lawyers in black gowns stooping over the water, looking for a meal. The stream meandered on and beside it strolled a lioness, quite purposefully. She saw a gazelle, which prepared to run, but the lioness decided not to chase and they both returned to their own business.

The jeep stopped whenever we wanted to watch an encounter. There was no sense of urgency, no set route. Drivers radioed each other about sightings and there were many connecting tracks to see the ‘Big Five’ animals especially. Next was a male lion, sitting regally in the shade of a bush. While we watched, he rolled over and fell asleep. Baboons crossed the road in front of the jeep, mothers with infants clinging to their backs, males stalking arrogantly, in charge of the troupe.

To our left was a group of ostriches, two males and three females. They were flapping their enormous wings at each other in a mating ritual. On our return journey, hours later, a couple were walking together and the others had gone.

Quite often we saw zebra and warthogs grazing together, or zebra and giraffes. A flock of guinea fowl fluttered nervously at our approach but did not screech. They are used to raise the alarm on farms.

A young giraffe was grazing by the track and the jeep slowed to a stop. He stared at us, perhaps we had interrupted a meal, ambled to the centre of the track and turned to stare once more, posing for photos, before stretching out to nibble the tasty tree on the other side. It is impossible to not take photos.

The highlight of our day was the Hippo pool. As we pulled into the car park, we couldn’t see any hippos but this was one place we could disembark. Other people were looking over a fence and bushes. As we joined them, I gasped. There must have been a hundred hippos wallowing in the scummy, muddy water. They were tightly packed, barely moving but for their little stumpy tails twitching, splashing mud over each other. Then a large bull clambered onto a small female and proceeded to mate with her. I was quite fascinated. How on earth did he cling on? His bulk nearly drowned her, she shoved her nose up for air briefly. Another male decided to try his luck. He was soon chased off, the bull raised his head and thumped down into the water, sending a muddy tidal wave over nearby bodies. Oblivious to this drama, several crocodiles lay on a sandy bank soaking up the sun.

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The bird life in Tanzania can be strikingly colourful in contrast with the camouflage of animals. One about the size of a small crow, was iridescent peacock blue, another looked like a satiny, emerald green ibis.

On our way back, under a large acacia were two mother elephants and their calves. Perfect. I felt as if I had eaten a banquet.

There was a fuss when we arrived back at camp. Where had we been? We were late. It looked as though our driver was in trouble so I made sure his boss and our leader knew that it was not his fault. Apparently, another driver had misinformed Justaz that our jeep was stuck for an hour and he was worried. And so, to lunch.

The rest of the group had seen pretty much the same from the bus as we had, but not the ‘hippo porn’ which caused lots of laughter.

The afternoon was relaxing and washing clothes. Some went out for another game drive but we had such a great experience already we stayed back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 7: To Serengeti National Park

Saturday 15 July

This was a long day in the bus with no riding, 130 km on stony roads, We stopped for a picnic lunch under two acacias. They are well adapted to the hot, dry conditions.

Their tiny wrinkly leaves, on spindly branches, sturdy needle thorns and flat canopy tops give a surprising amount of shade. We clustered gratefully underneath to eat, on folding chairs that Juma and Amos unearthed from the truck. Such comforts were much appreciated. At the entrance to the park we had time to visit real toilets, the shop, buy coffee and ice cream, and stocked up on biscuits and snacks for our camping adventure. I bought postcards and had them stamped with the official Serengeti stamp. There were giant skulls decorating a dessicated garden, hippo and cape buffalo were easy to recognise.

We saw a monkey catch a lizard and walk a tightrope of spikes on a rooftop to a tree where it could safely eat. Other lizards decorated the ground and walls, their slender bodies vivid blue and red, with long tails, posing for photos. Also on the ground were furry squirrel-faced creatures like small wombats, but more agile. They scampered fast around the gardens chasing over walls, up trees quite unafraid.

IMG_0298To one side was a great slab of granite jutting diagonally from the ground. It had to be Simba’s rock from The Lion King.

From this point on, there would be no wee stops and hands kept inside the windows. Keep cameras and binoculars ready and call out Suma, suma to stop the bus for a sighting. There was constant chatter as we drove and I was convinced any animals would run away at the noise but these are different. Because they have grown up for generations with trucks and safari jeeps as part of their environment they have become used to them. We stopped behind a jeep full of cameras pointing at a tree, about 20m away. Gerard had excellent binoculars. ‘It’s a leopard,’ he announced. Karimi and Justaz were visibly moved. ‘This is so rare,’ said Justaz and the chatter subsided as we jostled to see. The leopard was draped along a branch, one paw hanging down, apparently asleep. As cameras clicked and we stared in awe, Justaz spotted movement in the grass. ‘Look, there are hyenas. They can smell the leopard but they don’t know where it is. We watched as they circled several nearby trees, heads up, sniffing.

‘Surely they can’t hurt the leopard?’ someone said.

‘No, but they can annoy it, disturb it so it leaves the tree.’ If the leopard had made a kill and eaten its fill, the hyenas would scavenge the remains. The journey was punctuated by cries of ‘Giraffe!’ ‘Zebra!’ ‘Impala!’ ‘Pumba!’ (warthogs are forever pumbas after the Lion King).

The shout of ‘Lion!’ had us all rushing to one side of the bus, then, ‘Where?’ Only those with perfect eyesight could spot the King as he sheltered under a particularly bushy tree, in long green grass and shrub. Binoculars were passed round, cameras took photos and we left him to his peaceful afternoon. Soon after, ‘Elephant!’ and there were two mothers with calves strolling through the grass. The journey could have been tedious and uncomfortable but we were too interested in the wildlife to care. A small herd of cape buffalo were grazing not far from the road.  We learned these are the most dangerous animals in the park. They will charge for no reason.

 

The bus halted though no one had asked. A gazelle lay dead in the roadside grass, probably killed by a jeep; they were always dashing across just in front of us. Vultures, five of them, were already landing to feast. At our stopping they hopped away, not far. As we watched to see what drama would unfold, someone saw hyenas trotting over. As with the leopard, they did not know where the dead gazelle lay, but they knew the vultures knew. One by one the vultures rose casually into the sky on enormous wings, each heading off in a different direction. The hyenas stopped, confused and began circling, trying to locate the kill. They seemed to work together, each taking a patch to search. Again, they gave up after a short while. We stopped for a pride of lionesses and cubs, trying to work out how many there were concealed by the grass. A troupe of baboons ambled across the road in front of the bus, mums with babies clinging tight to their backs. One mother curled her tail up and around her baby, who was sitting upright on her back.

When we finally reached the camp site, the sun was setting so the first action was to take photos. It was pretty special. Although listed as basic, our site had a toilet/shower block, a kitchen large enough to accommodate three cooks and paraphernalia and another building besides. There were two other groups the first night. Both were very quiet, unlike ours. They sat round a campfire barely talking. It was unanimously agreed that we were the best bunch of people to be with. Our tents were pitched in a semi-circle, with our fire outside at the edge. There were fleeting drops of rain as we sat, enough to make us find jackets. The dark clouds rumbled away. Our instructions for night-time were clear. If you need to go to the toilet block, go in twos with torches. Preferably, pee close to your tent. Any noises outside will most likely be impala or zebra grazing. Not quite like camping in the Australian bush. I woke up of course, needing to pee. There was comforting light from the embers of our fire. I imagined fires kept the animals away. Not long after I wriggled back into my tangled up sleeping bag, a horrible eerie howl came from outside. A hyena had scented me and come to investigate. I was scared it would know I was inside the tent and froze, holding my breath. Pat was awake too and we listened, not knowing what to expect. Nothing did happen and eventually we cuddled up and slept. In the morning, Justaz remarked that there were four hyenas round our tent last night. He said they are cowards, they would have run away if we’d shone the torch at them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 6: To Wasso

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Friday 14 July

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We packed our sandwich bags at breakfast, ready for picnic lunch.

The cycling was tough. The high altitude, heat and an ‘undulating’ road made me breathless, Pat and Adriana too. We were passing the Ventolin inhaler round like a joint.  At the rest stop, I cycled past the group without seeing them, (focused on the rocky road) and then fell off when I hit a hill of sand.  I was rescued by a disbelieving Justaz, What were you doing? and cycled back down following his tracks to cheers from everyone. Most managed the 40 km alright but we three were happy to get in the bus. At lunchtime, camping chairs were pulled from the innards of the bus and set up in the shade of a couple of trees, what luxury! Bikes were loaded and the rest of the day was up and up, winding roads, dry riverbeds, jolting and shuddering till I expected rivets to start popping out with the strain.

We clapped and cheered our driver, Karimi, when we reached the top of the escarpment. Camping was optional at our next stop, in the guest house garden or we could stay in the guesthouse. It had enough rooms to accommodate all of us for $10 each person. A small language

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hiccup made organising difficult: a ‘double’ room contained two single beds and a ‘single’ contained one double bed. We found it hilarious but the joke was lost in translation.

There was another option once we had settled in, to visit the supermarket and bank or visit the local market across the road. Pat and I were the only ones to go to the market. We loved it. On sale were Masai blankets, mobile phones, torches and batteries, shoes in an enormous pile, fruit piled on dusty tarps on the ground, small green-skinned oranges, mangoes, tomatoes, onions. Most stalls had exactly the same. When I spied avocados, I bought 7 and gave them to Juma so he could make his popular avocado salad. One lady had enormous cabbages and a red heap of sweet potatoes. A long white sausage-like bag lay on the ground. It was made of several grain sacks sewn together and contained potatoes. It must have weighed 100 kg. There were second-hand clothes piled on tables, baby clothes, hessian sacks of grain for chickens, tools, all hand tools. We wandered round feeling quite at home, a) because we like markets b) because it was very similar to the markets in PNG where we used to shop every week. Interesting also was the clientele. The Masai were in town and buying. The stall holders were from a different tribe.  A group of four young men caught our attention. They stood tall and disdainful, languidly strolling and showing off their finery. They must have been princes. They were festooned with silver jewellery and beaded bracelets, necklaces and anklets. Their long hair was intricately braided with jewellery. All had a headband with a metal strip decorated with an ornament which bounced gently over their brows as they moved their heads. They wore short tunics with a belt and bush knife but no wrap like most others. I wanted a photo but they wanted to be paid so we had to say no. Trucks and buses crammed with bodies, bags and livestock, honked horns to announce IMG_0070.JPGimminent departure. More piled on. Pat spotted a brick kiln, a 2sqm cube of blackened bricks with three small holes at the bottom for fires. Unsteady columns of bricks were stacked at the side. A man came over and shooed us away, we did not argue. A goat was dragged away on a rope, bleating and bucking, two scruffy chickens lay hobbled in the dust awaiting their fate. That hour was one of the highlights for us.

 

 

Saturday 15 July

Day 7

 

To the Serengeti National Park

 

This was a long day in the bus with no riding, 130 km on stony roads, We stopped for a picnic lunch under two acacias. They are well adapted to the hot, dry conditions.

Their tiny wrinkly leaves, on spindly branches, sturdy needle thorns and flat canopy tops give a surprising amount of shade. We clustered gratefully underneath to eat, on folding chairs that Juma and Amos unearthed from the truck. Such comforts were much appreciated. At the entrance to the park we had time to visit real toilets, the shop, buy coffee and ice cream, and stocked up on biscuits and snacks for our camping adventure. I bought postcards and had them stamped with the official Serengeti stamp. There were giant skulls decorating a dessicated garden, hippo and cape buffalo were easy to recognise. We saw a monkey catch a lizard and walk a

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tightrope of spikes on a rooftop to a tree where it could safely eat. Other lizards decorated the ground and walls, their slender bodies vivid blue and red, with long tails, posing for photos. Also on the ground were furry squirrel-faced creatures like small wombats, but more agile. They scampered fast around the gardens chasing over walls, up trees quite unafraid. To one side was a great slab of granite jutting diagonally from the ground. It had to be Simba’s rock from The Lion King.

From this point on, there would be no wee stops and hands kept inside the windows. Keep cameras and binoculars ready and call out Suma, suma to stop the bus for a sighting. There was constant chatter as we drove and I was convinced any animals would run away at the noise but these are different. Because they have grown up for generations with trucks and safari jeeps as part of their environment they have become used to them. We stopped behind a jeep full of cameras pointing at a tree, about 20m away. Gerard had excellent binoculars. ‘It’s a leopard,’ he announced. Karimi and Justaz were visibly moved. ‘This is so rare,’ said Justaz and the chatter subsided as we jostled to see. The leopard was draped along a branch, one paw hanging down, apparently asleep. As cameras clicked and we stared in awe, Justaz spotted movement in the grass. ‘Look, there are hyenas. They can smell the leopard but they don’t know where it is. We watched as they circled several nearby trees, heads up, sniffing.

‘Surely they can’t hurt the leopard?’ someone said.

‘No, but they can annoy it, disturb it so it leaves the tree.’ If the leopard had made a kill and eaten its fill, the hyenas would scavenge the remains. The journey was punctuated by cries of ‘Giraffe!’ ‘Zebra!’ ‘Impala!’ ‘Pumba!’ (warthogs are forever pumbas after the Lion King).

The shout of ‘Lion!’ had us all rushing to one side of the bus, then, ‘Where?’ Only those with perfect eyesight could spot the King as he sheltered under a particularly bushy tree, in long green grass and shrub. Binoculars were passed round, cameras took photos and we left him to his peaceful afternoon. Soon after, ‘Elephant!’ and there were two mothers with calves strolling through the grass. The journey could have been tedious and uncomfortable but we were too interested in the wildlife to care. A small herd of cape buffalo were grazing not far from the road.  We learned these are the most dangerous animals in the park. They will charge for no reason.

 

The bus halted though no one had asked. A gazelle lay dead in the roadside grass, probably killed by a jeep; they were always dashing across just in front of us. Vultures, five of them, were already landing to feast. At our stopping they hopped away, not far. As we watched to see what drama would unfold, someone saw hyenas trotting over. As with the leopard, they did not know where the dead gazelle lay, but they knew the vultures knew. One by one the vultures rose casually into the sky on enormous wings, each heading off in a different direction. The hyenas stopped, confused and began circling, trying to locate the kill. They seemed to work together, each taking a patch to search. Again, they gave up after a short while. We stopped for a pride of lionesses and cubs, trying to work out how many there were concealed by the grass. A troupe of baboons ambled across the road in front of the bus, mums with babies clinging tight to their backs. One mother curled her tail up and around her baby, who was sitting upright on her back.

 

When we finally reached the camp site, the sun was setting so the first action was to take photos. It was pretty special. Although listed as basic, our site had a toilet/shower block, a kitchen large enough to accommodate three cooks and paraphernalia and another building besides. There were two other groups the first night. Both were very quiet, unlike ours. They sat round a campfire barely talking. It was unanimously agreed that we were the best bunch of people to be with. Our tents were pitched in a semi-circle, with our fire outside at the edge. There were fleeting drops of rain as we sat, enough to make us find jackets. The dark clouds rumbled away. Our instructions for night-time were clear. If you need to go to the toilet block, go in twos with torches. Preferably, pee close to your tent. Any noises outside will most likely be impala or zebra grazing. Not quite like camping in the Australian bush. I woke up of course, needing to pee. There was comforting light from the embers of our fire. I imagined fires kept the animals away. Not long after I wriggled back into my tangled up sleeping bag, a horrible eerie howl came from outside. A hyena had scented me and come to investigate. I was scared it would know I was inside the tent and froze, holding my breath. Pat was awake too and we listened, not knowing what to expect. Nothing did happen and eventually we cuddled up and slept. In the morning, Justaz remarked that there were four hyenas round our tent last night. He said they are cowards, they would have run away if we’d shone the torch at them.

 

Sunday 16 July

Day 8

Serengeti – Game Drives

Monday 17 July

Day 9

 

To Ngorongoro Crater

The highlight of the day was a collision between a truck going the opposite way and our bus. The truck driver misjudged the available space or the size of his vehicle. Both drivers edged onto the scree at the sides and nearly made it. We were holding our collective breath when a nasty grating sound came from the roof at the rear. Because both vehicles were tilting towards the middle, their roofs had crunched.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 5: Lake Natron

Thursday 13 July

At breakfast, Pat, Justaz and I had a long conversation about Tanzania, the political, social, economic situation there. He believes education is the key to prosperity, of course! We had our first safari in two vehicles, to visit nearby Lake Natron. We saw the best yet in terms of wildlife. Our guides got us very close to a big herd of giraffes, we think eight mothers and young ones. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

Early hominid footprints in cooling lava

We saw ancient human footprints, apparently made in cooling lava many thousands of years ago. Desert winds had blown away the protective sand and archaeologists carefully uncovered an area full of footprints. They are fenced off for protection but we could walk over them and marvel.

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The lake water was full of minerals and provided the   cows, wildebeest and zebra with alkaline nutrients. The grass there was bright green and the animals grazed and mingled together in harmony. Closer to the edge of the lake, the mud had dried to a crust over a slippery layer of mud which was tricky to walk on. Flamingos were in the shallow water at the edge, thousands of them.

Our two Masai guides, John and Jackson, were well informed about the lake and animals and answered all our questions. They are very thin by Western standards, swathed in wraps of red, checked design. Apparently, this custom dates back to Scottish influence! Men and women wear brightly coloured beaded bracelets and necklaces and pierce their ears till the lobes are stretched, for filigreed silver earrings. Hair is either extremely short or long, braided and beaded. Their sandals are cut from old car tyres. They need to be very tough so the acacia thorns cannot pierce the soles.

In the afternoon, some hardy souls went on a hike to the nearby waterfall. The ground was rocky and they were clambering over boulders at times. I was glad to stay behind, not wishing to injure my knee again. Pat stayed back to recuperate, reading in an ancient wicker chair. The back and seat were of worn cowskin. A couple of others caught up on sleep and washing. I swam laps, what an unexpected luxury. The waterfall hikers returned happy. They had swum in the pool below the falls, one of the few places it was safe to swim without fear of parasites. Our campsite was supplied with water from there.

 

 

Why are you going to Tasmania?

Well, Jenny’s lovely Mother misread “Tanzania” and either way it is a pertinent question. We’re going there to ride bikes from Kilimanjaro to fabled places such as the Ngorongoro crater and The Serengeti. We want to meet the Masai people and if we have to back up for an elephant we will be very happy. Tonight we are on our way to Dubai then Nairobi then Arusha. We plan to join a group and cycle about 300 km over the next two weeks. We will see how we go and hopefully be able to post a few notes about our journey together.

Peel Isle of Man

When we booked our place for Peel it seemed as if we would have a long long time here. Now we are facing leaving next Friday. Summer has been on and off again but we have enjoyed living in Peel.

We are having a bit of trouble getting our blog organised – internet speeds are slow. When we find wifi it is invariably slow and baulks at uploading images. We will try to keep the text up and insert images when we are able.

Peel is a place for long walks, for looking at boats in the Marina and enjoying Guiness at The Creek Hotel. We are enjoying it very much.

 

 

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